Plant the Slant: Tips for Gardening on Slopes

Photo: Creeping Phlox, Margaret Fisher

Eileen Ellsworth

Depending on its position and angle, planting a slope isn’t always easy. But the rewards can be considerable. When your work is done and your slope face is filled with new, colorful, water-absorbing, soil-retaining natives, it’s a tremendous feeling of pride and accomplishment. Your garden will display like a picture on a wall.

Erosion is, of course, the main issue. There’s no such thing as a “one-size-fits-all” plan for slope gardening. Slope contours, angles, sun exposure, water flow, and soil health all differ. And for sharply angled slopes, landscape engineering strategies like check dams and terracing may be necessary for erosion control. But for most slopes, native plants are all that are needed. Their deep and extensive root systems interrupt the chain of events that causes erosion, and, once established, they attract local wildlife to boot.

Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) planted on a slope. Photo: Margaret Fisher

Remember there is no need to tackle the entire slope at once. Get started on just one section and see how it goes with these steps:

1. Identify the existing native trees, shrubs, and plants on your slope, and leave them be. Use iNaturalist, Picture This, or some other tool to help you. You will plant around and between them, which is helpful. Their existing structure offers a frame to fill, and their shade will help the new plants establish themselves and better survive the summer heat.  

2. Identify the non-natives and remove them, then amend the soil with some compost and perhaps new topsoil depending on the extent of erosion.

3. Purchase new native plants. For best results, choose plants that spread quickly, have broad leaves to catch the rain, and a strong winter presence. Also, slopes are drier than flat plots because of their drainage, and moisture down a slope occurs at a gradient. They tend to be drier at the top and moister towards the bottom, so consider some drought-tolerant plants in your purchase.

4. Plant everything and then mulch. While mulching is never ideal in that it tamps down native plant spread as well as weeds, natives take their time getting established. First year they “sleep,” next year they “creep,” and the third year they “leap.” Mulch will help protect your plants until they “leap” sufficiently to cover the ground and grip the soil.

5. Water your plants frequently, especially in July and August. They won’t make it through the first year without enough water. A soaker hose is one way to keep the water from just running off.

6. As the season progresses, revisit your plan. Perhaps add duplicates of plants in early autumn that did especially well.

Here are some additional resources for your consideration:

• The Northern Virginia Soil and Water Conservation District provides an excellent list of erosion control plants.

• Plant NOVA Natives has a webpage dedicated to erosion control and suggested plants here.  

• Request a free site visit from NVBA’s Wildlife Sanctuary Program and ask for suggestions.

Your Yard Can Help Save Our Streams

Photo: Dense plantings of native plants capture stormwater, Margaret Fisher

Plant NOVA Natives

Northern Virginia’s stream and river water quality is not great. Although agriculture is the largest contributor by far of nutrient and sediment loads in Virginia’s streams, rivers, and the Chesapeake Bay, urban and suburban stormwater runoff is the second-largest and the fastest-growing contributor of these pollutants.

Consider, for example, the 52-square-mile Accotink Creek watershed in Fairfax. For several years, the U. S. Geological Survey and Fairfax County have partnered to monitor pollutants in 20 watersheds across the County, including Accotink Creek. The good news is that nitrogen levels have generally dropped. But phosphorus concentrations have remained exceptionally high. Why? Because 87% of the Accotink Creek watershed is developed with 27% of the land covered in impervious surfaces. Such intensely developed regions produce large loads of sediment from stormwater runoff, and phosphorus is bound to sediment. Reduce the sediment levels in our local streams, and you will lessen the phosphorus pollution.

Dense plantings of native plants capture stormwater. Photo: Margaret Fisher

Both the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation and the Virginia Department of Environmental Quality have announced focused efforts during 2026 to reduce nutrient-based pollutants and sediment loads in our water. By December of 2025 we had met 100% of our sediment reduction targets, which is excellent news. But we met only 80% of the nitrogen and 62% of the phosphorus reduction goals.

This is a compelling call to action for all property owners in northern Virginia. Below are several strategies to reduce nutrient pollution and sediment loads in our waterways.

• Plant more native plants, especially where stormwater tends to flow. Their deep roots stabilize the soil and absorb far more harmful nutrients than turfgrass lawns. Notice where stormwater tends to flow on your property along swales or slopes and plant there first.

• Plant a street-side garden. Remember the underused strips of your property next to the street or sidewalk. These are ideal spots to add native plants, as their roots will catch stormwater overflow before it hits the pavement. Take care, however, to avoid underground lines, pipes, and overhead wires. And please consider whether your plantings impact people’s access to their cars, mailboxes, or safe crossing to the sidewalk. See  Plant NOVA Natives’ comprehensive list of considerations for street-side gardens before you begin to dig.

• Use organic compost. Ditching commercial fertilizers and using organic compost is always the best option to enrich the soil. But if you must use fertilizers, choose only phosphorus-free or low-phosphorus brands and use them sparingly.  

• Pick up pet waste: Nitrogen, phosphorus, bacteria like E. coli and Salmonella, parasites, and ammonia can all be found in pet waste! While pet owners often remember to pick up pet waste in public areas, remember to do so on your own property as well for the sake of our streams and rivers.

• Compost and mulch yard waste: Composting and mulching are two strategies that effectively return nutrients to the soil and keep them out of stormwater. Grass clippings should be composted or mulched back into the lawn. Leaves are best left in non-lawn areas, but those that fall on the lawn can also be mulched or raked up and added to your compost pile. Keep lawn debris out of the street and away from storm drains.

• Create a rain garden: Rain gardens are landscaped areas constructed to capture and hold stormwater so that it seeps into the soil instead of running off our property. A link to a  step by step guide on how to build a rain garden can be found here on the Plant NOVA Natives website.

• Use rain barrels: If you can capture water from downspouts and use it later to water your plants, this greatly reduces stormwater runoff caused by our roofs. 

• Redirect downspouts to vegetated areas rather than paved impervious surfaces: When rain barrels are not an option, try to redirect downspout water flow away from sidewalks and driveways and towards the more vegetated areas of your property.

• Reduce impervious surfaces: Replacing asphalt with gravel or permeable pavers will capture and keep more stormwater on your property. But reducing the lawn by converting parts of it to native plant gardens is also highly effective. Turf grass, while green, behaves more like concrete when it comes to water absorption.

• Maintain septic systems: Regularly inspect and pump septic systems to prevent nutrient leaching into groundwater.

• Wash cars responsibly: Either use a commercial car wash or wash your car on grass to filter soapy water before it enters the ground.

Additional strategies to capture stormwater are discussed here on the Plant NOVA Natives website, along with a discussion of planting and maintaining riparian borders. Finally, here is a link to a  Fairfax County Soil and Water Conservation District manual with instructions on how to build and maintain rainwater gardens, green roofs, and more.  

Judging a Plant by its Label

Photo: Native plants at a garden center, Margaret Fisher

Eileen Ellsworth

Are you hunting for a particular native plant, shrub, or tree? Any native plant seller near you is a terrific place to shop. A list of native plant sellers can be found on the Plant NOVA Natives website. Browsing a commercial garden center is also an option, so long as you understand how to read plant labels.

Finding natives in commercial garden centers can be challenging. Plant labels, excepting those that Plant NOVA Native volunteers have already tagged in red as “Native,” rarely offer much information and use terms that can be confusing. Here are some definitions and tips to help you find exactly what the biodiversity of the region needs.

Plant label definitions: 

It’s helpful to group plant label terms into two groups: those pertaining to nature-made and those pertaining to human-made plants.

Nature-Made:

• A straight species is a 100% nature-made group of similar plants that can interbreed and reproduce by seed.

• A natural hybrid occurs in nature without human intervention between two native species.

• A variety or form arises within one native species as a genetic mutation and causes certain distinctive traits to appear.

Human-made:

• A cultivar is a strain of a specific, individual plant that growers produce in bulk for its desired commercial quality. These are usually (though not always) propagated from cuttings, which means that they are clones of each other. The name of the cultivar will be in single quotes, such as Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm.’

• A human-made hybrid or hybrid grouping is an individual plant or class of plants created by growers by crossing one species with another. They arise from similar yet complex breeding lines that all share a “hybrid” status. The scientific name on the label will include an “x” to designate hybrid status. It can be quite difficult to determine the exact lineage.

Buying tips:

Given the above terms, here are some tips on understanding plant labels before buying. 

• If the label provides the scientific name of a locally native species, including the genus and species, such as Monarda didyma, then this is the best choice for the local ecosystem. You can double check if a species is locally native by referencing the free Virginia Botanical Associates' Digital Atlas of Virginia Flora, which will not only advise if the plant is native to Virginia, but to northern Virginia as well. It could be the straight species, which is the most beneficial of all, or it could be a cultivar. If it is a cultivar, then it is a particular individual plant that the grower has cultivated in bulk by cloning for commercial sale. They are chosen for traits like size, color, resistance to mildew, etc. Cultivars differ from the straight native species. If the difference is only size, the cultivar will probably support wildlife well. But if the cultivar has altered the structure or color of flowers, native bees can’t access their nectar or perhaps recognize them as a source of food and shelter. Sometimes a cultivar changes the leaf color to red or purple, which also alters the plant’s chemistry. This can make them unsuitable as larval hosts for the butterflies, moths, and other insects that evolved to depend upon them. It’s best to use cultivars in locations distant from natural areas and only choose those that have not altered the straight native’s flower structure or color, fruit size, or leaf color.

• If the label provides the name of a hybrid (with an X), then it is a cross between species, and the human-made version is not native, meaning you’re risking the introduction of a non-native species into the region. As you can see from the plant label definitions above, hybrids can arise in nature or be man-made. But commercial garden centers sell human-made hybrids because their growers want controlled uniformity and protection for their intellectual property. These plants must be cloned as they do not produce seeds, and only plants grown from seeds create genetic diversity and improve species’ resistance to climate change and other environmental stressors. Human-made hybrids will not improve the biodiversity of your property.

• If the label provides only a brand name, then research would be needed online to figure out what it really is. It could be a cultivar or a hybrid.

The Plant NOVA Natives website has more information about plant label terms and buying tips. And you can always download our excellent Guide to Northern Virginia’s native plants to refine your shopping list of beautiful, straight-native plants.

The Depths of Winter: What's a Gardener to Do?

Photo: Invasive English Ivy with new year snow, Ian Paterson via CC BY-SA 2.0

Eileen Ellsworth

February is a daunting, cold month for sure. But winter dormancy is for plants, not humans, and February can be the perfect time to plan additions to your native plant garden. It is also a great time to remove some invasive, non-native species.

First, planning the spring garden. Native plants can be expensive, especially if you’re looking to cover a large area. Starting plants from seed has probably occurred to you, but it won’t happen without some advanced planning. It isn’t easy to grow native plants by sowing seeds directly in the ground, as explained more fully on the Plant NOVA Natives website. Growing them first in pots may be advisable. Also, many seeds require cold-stratification, or exposure to cooler temperatures for a specific period, before they can germinate. A popular alternative is to buy flats of small landscape plugs, which are easy to handle and cost-efficient.

Supplies are high and demand is low for both seeds and plugs at the moment. Here is a handy list of local and somewhat-local sellers. Not all of them accept orders in February, but their websites provide contact information for direct inquiries.

Plug Sellers

• Nature by Design

• Watermark Woods 

• Earth Sangha 

• Mid Atlantic Native Plant Farm

Seed Sellers

• Nature by Design

• Watermark Woods

• Hillhouse Farm and Nursery

You can also order seeds and plugs from mail-order sellers.

Next, removing invasives. If you were determined to remove some invasives this fall but never got to it, there is good reason to do it now when there are no leaves, no ticks, cooler temperatures, and less poison ivy. The Plant NOVA Natives website can help you prioritize your efforts. Here are a few examples of invasive species that are found in many people’s yards.

Amur Honeysuckle: This woody, non-native invasive degrades native environments by rapidly forming dense thickets that shade and choke out native plants. Here is a link to a YouTube video on how to identify it in winter. Smaller specimens are easy to dig or pull up at the root, but larger ones require a more heavy-duty tool, like a weed wrench, to pry them out. 

Burning Bush: Once a darling of local landscapers, this shrub is now considered a high-threat invasive in Virginia. It tolerates deep shade and adapts to many soil and light conditions. Small specimens come up easily with a shovel or fork, and larger ones with a weed wrench. If it’s too big to pry out at the root, cut the stem near the ground and immediately apply a concentrated herbicide such as triclopyr or glyphosate, ideally within 15 minutes to ensure absorption. Tips on herbicide use can be found on the Fairfax Tree Rescuers PRISM website.

Autumn Olive: This ubiquitous, woody invasive shades out native plants while changing the chemistry of the soil around it with nitrogen-fixing root nodules. This adaptation gives it a big advantage, allowing it to thrive in poor soil while aggressively invading new ground. Once established, it prolifically produces seeds that birds eat and spread widely. The removal advice provided above for burning bush also applies here. Cut stumps of Autumn olive can vigorously resprout, which can be avoided by using the cut-stump method described above.

English Ivy: Conveniently, this tree-killing vine stays green in the winter and so is easy to spot. Cut the vines at the base of trees (using loppers or a saw to cut the thicker vines), then create a bare ring around the tree by cutting the vines again further up, which severs the root connections. The vine above will simply die and dry out over time. Never try and remove the upper portion of the severed vines, as pulling them down can damage the tree.

Oriental Bittersweet: This highly invasive vine is often found tightly twined around trees, shrubs, and fences. Females in winter have distinctive berries that look like bright yellow capsules that split to show the red berries within. Smaller specimens can be pulled or dug up at the root, which has a distinctive orange hue. You can cut larger specimens near the ground and treat them with herbicides as described above.

There’s no need to waste a cold winter day if biodiversity is calling! Order some plugs of native flowering perennials. Remove an invasive shrub or vine. It all adds up to a splendid, bee-buzzier, bird-happier native space. 

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Use - and Lose - Nandina

Photo: Nandina, Emőke Dénes, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons

Julie Udani 

It’s a beautiful plant - evergreen, red berries, soft foliage - but evil lurks in its heart. Nandina, a.k.a. Heavenly Bamboo or Nandina domestica, is a woody shrub native to Asia. It is not a true bamboo but, just like its namesake, it is a real problem in the landscape. 

Nandina, Emőke Dénes, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons

Nandina is invasive in Virginia. But that’s not the worst part. Those pretty Nandina berries are poisonous to birds. In 2009 the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine was asked to investigate the death of cedar waxwings that had been found in a backyard in Thomas County. The laboratory examined the birds and discovered that they had died of cyanide poisoning from eating Nandina fruit. The berries can contain cyanogenic compounds. Because cedar waxwings often eat large quantities of berries at a time, the Nandina is particularly deadly for them; but any hungry bird is vulnerable. Nandina is also toxic to dogs, cats, and other small animals. 

Let’s take advantage of the season and use the berries and branches in our holiday decor. The fact that this requires removing the berries - or even the whole shrub - is a bonus. (You’ll need to dig the rest of it out when the soil softens in the spring because they can resprout from the roots.) 

Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata)Paul R. Burley, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), Eric Hunt, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

If you planted Nandina for the berries and are now feeling bitterly betrayed, there are several native alternatives. For example: Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata). It isn’t evergreen but it is spectacular when it drops its leaves and the generous clusters of red berries remain. The fruits can persist quite late before the birds eat them. That means more color for you in your landscape and a source of food for the birds at a time in winter when there isn’t much else available. Note that hollies are usually dioecious - that means plants are either male or female. Only the females produce berries but to get the berries you need to plant at least one male. Or switch to purple berries and plant Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) which is absolutely gorgeous in a fall border planted with goldenrods and asters. 

Inkberry (Ilex glabra), vastateparksstaff, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Doghobble (Leucothoe fontanaisiana), KENPEI, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

For an evergreen Nandina replacement, there are dwarf cultivars of Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Bordeaux’ or ‘Nana’) that can give you red berries and evergreen foliage in a sunny spot. For shade, swap it for Inkberry (Ilex glabra) or Doghobble (Leucothoe fontanaisiana). If you liked the soft texture of the bamboo-like foliage, look to Coastal Doghobble (Leucothoe axillaris) for a taller swap, or one of our native evergreen ferns for something shorter. Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) and Wood Fern (Dryopteris marginalis) are evergreen and do just fine in regular garden soil. All of these options - except the Beautyberry - are also deer resistant.

So lose the evil Nandina. Cut it down - it makes a great holiday wreath. Just don’t put it where pets or children might eat the berries.

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Grow a Winter Bird Feeder

Photo: American Goldfinch, Barb D’Arpino/Audubon Photography Awards

Elizabeth Martin

Now that fall migration is winding down, the resident birds who stayed behind will be foraging and scrounging for food to survive the winter. Now is the time to clean and fill the feeders to help birds make a living when other food sources are scarce. It’s also time to think about providing next year’s winter bird food by planting more native plants, including native grasses, wildflowers, and woody plants, such as shrubs, vines and trees, that provide sustenance all winter long.

American Goldfinch feeding on seeds of New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae angliae). Photo: Barb D’Arpino/Audubon Photography Awards

Mourning doves survive almost entirely on grain, including seeds from native grasses such as little bluestem and Indian grass. Native grasses provide high quality, carbohydrate-rich grain for birds in winter. Sparrows and dark-eyed juncos also eat grass seeds. 

Many of the best winter food sources for birds are produced by members of the sunflower family (Asteraceae). Asters, sunflowers, black and brown-eyed Susans, goldenrods, ironweeds and others all produce highly nutritious seed that ripens late in the season. Some plants produce large seed, and others produce small seed, and so different bird species are attracted to feed on them. For example, Northern Cardinals love large sunflower seeds, while finches and sparrows feed on the smaller seeds of brown-eyed Susans and goldenrods. By planting a variety of wildflowers, you’ll attract a greater variety of bird species looking for winter food. Goldfinches, chickadees, and titmice also feed on wildflower seeds. 

 A variety of dormant native grasses and herbaceous flowering plant stems left standing in winter. Avoid cutting them down until spring, if you can. They provide many ecological benefits, including food for many birds. Photo: Brandon Everett

To preserve this source of bird food, don’t deadhead or cut down dried grasses and wildflowers when they go dormant in fall. Not only will the seeds feed the birds, but the dried stems and stalks provide shelter and overwintering sites for insects, butterflies, and other little critters. 

Finally, the fruits of many native trees, shrubs and vines provide winter food for birds, especially the fruit-lovers (frugivores) like woodpeckers, American Robins, Northern Mockingbirds, Cedar Waxwings and Blue Jays. For example, Coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is a semi-evergreen vine which produces clusters of red berries that support finches and robins. This plant’s dense growth also provides good nest sites and shelter for birds, and its red trumpet-shaped flowers attract hummingbirds in summer—it is truly a plant for all seasons. Berries on Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) cling to the vine into winter and are favored by woodpeckers. Winterberry (Ilex verticillate), a deciduous holly shrub, and the evergreen American holly tree (Ilex opaca) produce starchy drupes that are not initially palatable and are only eaten later in winter, after they have gone through several freeze and thaw cycles. When the holly drupes are finally ripe, birds may show up in large flocks and completely strip a holly tree or shrub in a matter of minutes. By the time they’re eaten, the drupes have fermented, so you may see tipsy birds staggering unsteadily in your backyard after their feeding frenzy.

Drunken birds?  You can’t get a show like that with a birdfeeder.

Northern Mockingbird feeding on Winterberry (Ilex verticillata). Photo: Barbara Driscoll/Audubon Photography Awards

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Be Very Brave: Plant a New Native Shrub This Fall

Photo: Native shrubs, Margaret Fisher

Eileen Ellsworth

Fall is the perfect time of year to add new plants to your landscapes and gardens, especially shrubs. They anchor a garden or a landscape for many years and are an ideal choice for fall planting. It may seem counterintuitive to invest in any new plants with cooler weather on the way. But the winter to come is what provides the advantage, allowing the roots to get established well before being hit by the next summer’s heat. If you install the plants properly and faithfully water for the first few weeks, they will grow and thrive beyond expectations for years to come. 

Purchasing new native plants, shrubs, and trees has never been easier. Several local nurseries specialize in native plant offerings. Thanks to the grass-roots efforts of Plant NOVA Natives and its many partners, traditional sellers and garden centers now offer a far wider array of native plants than ever before. As consumer demand has risen, plant sellers also willingly participate in native plant labeling programs to help their customers more easily identify them.

So, it's the right time of year to plant, and native plants are easier to find than ever before. But . . . something is still stopping you. Hmm. What could that be?

FEAR! You’re convinced you don’t know enough about native shrubs to pick the right one. You believe there is too much to learn and to decide between now and mid-month, so best to just let it be. You’ve imagined that the life of this shrub, upon which the biodiversity of your entire yard will no doubt depend, is doomed in your neglectful hands. On all counts, you are wrong. 

Remember, we’re talking about native plants here. (It’s all we ever talk about here.) And native plants have lived in northern Virginia about 100 million years longer than humans have been alive on the planet. They know exactly what they’re doing, even if we don’t. We can trust that just about any native shrub we plant will grow, so long as its light and water requirements are more or less met. These plants are very old and quite resilient. They can adjust and adapt in surprising ways non-natives can’t. They evolved in local soil under local climate conditions. Water them a bit more during very hot or dry spells, and all will be well. They’ve got this. You are three simple decisions away from success.

First decision – Where to plant the shrub. Look for an empty spot, or one that currently contains a non-native species you’ve been meaning to remove. About how many hours of direct sun does the spot get? Does it collect water, or does it drain well? Consider whether there is room for some growth, because native shrubs can grow with considerable vigor. You can always prune them back – a lot, if necessary. Pick the spot, then say to yourself, “New shrub will live here.” Done. Time for the second decision.

Second decision – What kind of native shrub to buy. Winterberry, Red Chokeberry, Highbush Blueberry, Spicebush, Buttonbush, Arrow-wood Viburnum, Virginia Sweetspire, Wild Hydrangea. These, and many others, are listed and discussed on the Plant NOVA Natives “Native Shrubs” webpage. They are all wildlife powerhouses, and yes, there are many.

But here’s the most important thing to remember when making this decision: It doesn’t matter what species you choose, and you can’t make a wrong choice. Any new native shrub will contribute to biodiversity, strengthen the food web, act as a host for some native insect species, and stabilize the soil. Many species will only set fruit if you plant two of them, in which event you’re also helping to attract and feed the birds. (It’s always best to purchase the second shrub from a different grower or seller so they are genetically divergent and not clones of each other.) Some other resources you can use to choose a shrub include 

1. the Plant NOVA Natives newly improved Plant Finder App, and

2. the Plant NOVA Natives Native Plant Plants for Northern Virginia guide, available in print or as a free download. 

Spend no more than an hour browsing the lists, choose the one you like, then say to yourself, “I will plant this shrub, and I’m not changing my mind.” Done. Time for the third decision.

Third decision: Where will I buy the shrub. This is the easiest one of all. Plant NOVA Natives lists fall native plant sales, native plant garden centers, and participating conventional garden centers. In the case of the one-day native plant sales, you may want to call the grower or seller a couple of days in advance and ask them to make sure they will be bringing the shrub you are seeking. If not, many folks will work with you directly to make sure you get what you want, even if that means picking it up directly from their native plant nursery. Done. All done.

So, let’s be brave. Let’s make these three decisions, buy and plant the shrub, and water it appropriately. Despite our worries, chances are excellent that next spring we will find ourselves chatting up and getting to know a new, glorious, happy, fruitful, flowerful native shrub that is anchored in our soil and smiling at the sun.

We may know nothing about native shrubs, and yet we have everything we need: joy, meaning, commitment, resolve, centeredness, and the support of a like-minded community of earth-loving native plant gardeners.

And, of course, we have the native plants themselves, who figure it all out anyway, with or without us.

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: It's Time for Goldenrods

Photo: Goldenrod blooming in Fairfax County, Famartin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Alda Krinsman

One hallmark of autumn is the appearance of goldenrods along roadsides and in wild spaces; however, until recently, goldenrods have rarely been used deliberately in gardens. That omission is a shame, because goldenrods, along with asters, are not only attractive to human eyes but also, more importantly, support many pollinator and bird species with their nectar, pollen, and seeds.

There are over 138 species of goldenrod worldwide, the majority of which are found in North America. There are over 40 species of goldenrod native to Virginia alone. Most species of goldenrod belong to the genus Solidago, but some are also classified in the genera Euthamia and Oligoneuron. Perhaps one reason goldenrods have not been widely used in gardens is that many people believe goldenrods cause hay fever and are responsible for their sneezing and watery eyes every autumn. However, the goldenrod pollen is too heavy and sticky to be dispersed by wind. It is usually moved from plant to plant by bees and other pollinators. The true cause of hay fever is ragweed (Ambrosia species), which blooms around the same time of year as many goldenrods and is relatively inconspicuous. Ragweed produces abundant pollen, which is very light and dispersed by the wind. So next time you sneeze, blame the ragweed, not the goldenrod.

Locust Borer on Goldenrod, Judy Gallagher

In late summer and autumn, many bees such as bumblebees, sweat bees, and mining bees seek out the pollen provided by goldenrods to provision their nests. Male bees, butterflies and moths will seek out the nectar. Monarch butterflies will seek out goldenrod nectar on their migration south. The seeds of the plants are favored snacks by birds such as Goldfinch and Chickadees. Earlier in the growing season goldenrods also play an important role as larval hosts to up to 114 species of caterpillars, including Brown-Hooded Owlets and Goldenrod Hooded Owlets.

Goldenrod Crab Spider, Judy Gallagher, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Goldenrod species tolerate or even thrive in a range of environmental conditions. Some do well in part shade, and some prefer full sun. Some do well in dry soils, and others prefer moist soils. So, when selecting a goldenrod, take those factors into consideration. Although goldenrods provide valuable ecoservices, not every species is right for every situation. Some goldenrod species such as Canadian goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) can spread aggressively and are best used in large areas such as meadows and restoration projects. However, there are quite a few species that are good choices for garden situations. Blue-stemmed goldenrod (Solidago caesia) is a good choice for shady woodland gardens. Showy goldenrod (Solidago speciosa) would be a good choice for sunny dry areas, and wrinkleleaf goldenrod (Solidago rugosa) is recommended for poorly draining areas, although it also does well in garden soil with average moisture. Early goldenrod (Solidago juncea), which is one of the first goldenrods to bloom in summer, and anise scented goldenrod (Solidago odora) also are good candidates for average garden situations. 

Even well-behaved goldenrods may naturalize quickly. If you find you have too much of a good thing, control the spread by dividing your plant every few years and give some to your friends!

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Growing Virginia Native Plants from Seed

Photo: Milkweed seeds, Larry D. Moore, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Laura Beaty and Donna Murphy

Fall is coming and gardeners’ thoughts may turn to collecting seeds for planting next spring. It’s best to remember that seed collecting begins with a knowledge and understanding of protocols and ethics of collecting seed outside of your own garden. Most people are aware they need the owner’s permission before gathering seeds from friends’ and neighbors’ gardens. It’s doubly important to get permission from land managing agencies before gathering any seeds from parks, forests and wilderness areas—even utility rights-of-way. You don’t want to impair the agencies’ conservation efforts.

A prominent native plant grower in our area, Earth Sangha, recommends that hobbyists not gather seeds from wild populations at risk of over-collection, as it also reduces food sources for wildlife. In addition to obtaining permission from the relevant land management agencies, it’s a good idea to seek guidance from local conservation organizations, like NVBA’s Wildlife Sanctuary Program, the Virginia Native Plant Society and local Master Naturalists if you are collecting outside your own garden and those of friends and neighbors.

Milkweed seeds. Photo: Larry D. Moore, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Seed collecting begins after flowering is completed and ideally late in the bloom season, giving the plant an opportunity to complete seed maturation. When collecting, use clearly marked bags with the plant’s name, date and location (site). You can custom-design envelopes to provide the information you’ll want to have on the seeds you collect for future use. Too often we have all assumed we’d remember what seed we’ve collected--Wrong! Keep good records. Brown bags (not plastic) help the seeds to dry out slowly. It’s fine to delay cleaning the seeds (separating seeds from dried flowers) for a rainy day when you have indoor time. 

Always look for fully ripened seeds, which ensures a mature embryo. Keep in mind that when seeds turn from green or yellow to tan, brown or black, and mature fruits turn red, orange or blue, they are ready to collect. When the fruits are ready the game is on for who will get to them first. Don’t wait! Many of us have missed collecting them on time and lost out to the birds and other wildlife.

When pulp, a germination inhibitor, is cleaned from fruit seeds, the seed is ready to grow when time and temperature are right. Timing is important. Once a seed is separated from the parent plant, its viability for producing a new plant is limited. It either germinates successfully or fails to germinate before it uses up the energy reserves it stores. Nature has provided a longer “viability” period to some seeds, but following regular protocols of processing is best practice. Most seeds require a cold period to ensure a viable embryo. Therefore, over-wintering the collected seeds in a safe/secure un-heated outdoor room, shed, or garage will prepare them for spring germination. 

You can prepare seed trays ahead of planting time in mid-March. Just cut coco-rolls to fit into the bottom of the trays for good drainage. There are a number of prepared seed-planting mixtures, or you can develop your own. Planting directly into the ground is iffy: Many birds will be watching, not to mention the squirrels. As the seedlings grow you can transfer them to individual small pots for better root development; in time, larger pots will accommodate their expanding roots—that’s a success!

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Attracting hummingbirds (and convincing them to stay a while)

Photo: Ruby-throated Hummingbird with Scarlet Beebalm, Sarah Holtz

Plant NOVA Natives

Hummingbirds may be the tiniest birds on the planet, but they are among the easiest and most delightful to observe. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are especially common in northern Virginia during the spring migration months of April and May and are the only species of hummingbirds who breed here. Most Ruby-throated Hummingbirds we spot through mid-May are flying through to other destinations. But some will choose to stay for weeks if the landscape offers them what they need.

With forethought and some planning, you can have a clear and frequent view of these 3.5-ounce, dive-bombing, backward-flying, shimmering, drama-obsessed, and Ferrari-engine-powered birds. If that sounds like fun, here are some tips to attract them now and get them to linger for the season.

Feed them nectar 

Hummingbirds have extreme metabolisms. A Ruby-throated Hummingbird’s heart beats up to 1,200 times per minute and its wings beat 53 times per second. They must consume very specific foods to survive, and they eat almost constantly.  

At least 20 percent of a hummingbird’s diet is nectar. They can’t taste “sweet,” but the nectar is a source of high-quality carbohydrates for their energy needs. They are therefore attracted to areas with nectar-producing native plants, many of which you can purchase, plant and grow. Before you make your plant selections, however, consider this. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds need to find and consume nectar through spring, summer, and fall. You should therefore select nectar-producing plants that flower at different times during the growing season.

Ruby-throated Hummingbird with Scarlet Beebalm, Sarah Holtz

Cardinal Flower, Eastern Red Columbine, and Coral Honeysuckle are considered the “big three” wildflower nectar sources for hummingbirds. Their flowers are all red, which signals the presence of carbohydrates to hummingbirds but not to bees who can’t see the color. They have also developed long tubular flowers with a pendulous and perch-less form, making them ideal sources of nectar for hovering, long-billed hummingbirds.

Of these three, Coral Honeysuckle is probably the number one recommended native plant for attracting hummingbirds. It blooms continuously through the growing season, timing its first bloom in northern Virginia close to the arrival of migrating Ruby-throated Hummingbirds in April. Eastern Red Columbine blooms in the spring and provides an early source of nectar, while Cardinal Flower begins blooming in July and lasts approximately 6-8 weeks. Planting all three around your property ensures a steady flow of nectar for many months.

You can also supplement your nectar-producing plants with hummingbird feeders filled with sugar water that mimics the carbohydrate content of nectar. Feeders can be purchased at any wild-bird center and hung near your window for close up views of the birds. Make sure you select a feeder that is easy to open and clean. Bacteria and fungi grow quickly in them, especially if placed in the sun. Once a week, or more frequently in warm weather, disassemble and clean your feeder thoroughly in hot water with mild dish soap. Scrub the pieces with a clean brush, rinse in cold water, and air-dry before refilling. 

The Cornell Lab of Ornithology provides a recipe for making your own hummingbird feeder solution. Use ¼ cup of granulated cane sugar per cup of unsoftened, hot, and non-distilled water. In cold rainy weather you can make it a bit stronger if you like with up to 1/3 cup of sugar per cup of water. While some people boil their sugar water solution, that is not necessary if your drinking water is safe and your feeder is kept clean. Never use food coloring in the solution.

Feed them protein and fat

Although we tend to think of hummingbirds as mostly nectar eaters, that isn’t close to the truth. According to Doug Tallamy, an entomologist at the University of Delaware and national proponent of incorporating native plants in residential landscapes, only 20 percent of a hummingbird’s diet is nectar while 80 percent is composed of insects and spiders. Cornell’s “Birds of the World” reports that rough estimates from fecal samples indicate a large percentage of insects in the birds’ diet, perhaps as high as 50-60 percent. Whatever figure further study indicates, it’s clear that only biologically diverse ecosystems that have incorporated a range of native plants and native trees can produce enough insects and spiders to feed any species of birds consistently and well. This is because native plants and trees co-evolved with specific insects, so they are entirely interdependent upon one another.

An adequate supply of insects, particularly caterpillars that birds use to feed their young, is simply necessary to attract and keep hummingbirds. Spiders, flies, aphids, caterpillars, and gnats are all common sources of protein and fat in a ruby-throated hummingbird’s diet. Dr. Tallamy believes that hummingbirds are actually insectivores who happen to eat nectar. If your yard is bereft of native plants and trees, hummingbirds can’t stay there, especially when you consider that they build their nests using spider silk to bind and hold the construction materials together. Such a landscape can neither feed them nor help them to successfully breed. It also follows that you must not spray your yard with insecticides, since chemicals intended to kill ticks or adult mosquitoes will kill all the other insects as well.

Know when to expect them next year

If you are able to attract hummingbirds this year, remember to put out your clean feeder once again in mid-April to welcome them back. There is evidence that they have strong “site fidelity,” meaning they tend to return to their favorite feeding and breeding sites year after year, a remarkable feat for such small and graceful creatures.

For more details, see the Plant NOVA Natives website, the Wildlife Sanctuary Program's website, and Cornell’s All About Birds. 

New Law Requires Signs: Some Plants Are Invasive

Photo: English Ivy, Chris Light, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Glenda C. Booth

Most plant shoppers are baffled by the array of choices awaiting purchase at garden shops, especially at big box stores, and may choose a plant for its color, distinctive shape or “curb appeal.” Whether it is suitable for a planned site, native or not native, can be a big guess. 

Thanks to NVBA advocates’ and many others’ efforts, Virginia has a new law that requires, by January 1, 2027, retailers to conspicuously post “in proximity to each invasive plant display” signs indicating that a plant is invasive and “encouraging consumers to ask about alternatives.” 

Governor Glenn Youngkin signed the bill into law on March 24. Delegate Holly Seibold and Senator Saddam Salam introduced and shepherded identical bills through the 2025 state legislature. 

The law lists 39 specific plants by their scientific name, plants like English ivy, heavenly bamboo, periwinkle and Japanese wisteria. You can read the final bills and the full list of plants on the Virginia Legislative Information System site at HB1941 and SB1166.

The 39 listed plants were negotiated with stakeholders and settled on because they are commonly sold and are on the Virginia Invasive Plant Species List managed by the Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR), a list that has 103 species on it.

Informed Consumers

Advocates argued that invasive plants degrade habitat and agricultural land and displace more valuable native plants that support native wildlife with which they co-evolved and are interdependent. The new law benefits native plants and animals, especially insects and birds.

Supporters maintained that economic losses in Virginia due to invasive species may be as high as $1 billion annually, costs that the new law can help reduce.

The bill’s supporters also argued that many people who buy plants may not know that some are invasive and cause environmental harm. Many sales employees are not knowledgeable about native and invasive plants and can only provide limited guidance to consumers. Having information at the point of sale is critical to educating consumers, encouraging the purchase of native plants and avoiding invasive plants. 

Senator Salim told NVBA, "As a volunteer on neighborhood cleanups, I have seen firsthand the harm that invasive species are causing to Virginia's natural environment. Invasive plants displace native flora, threatening wildlife and pollinators in ways that disrupt our parks, agricultural lands and even habitats for endangered species. 

“I'm proud to have championed legislation in my first term in the Virginia Senate that gives the power to consumers by educating them at the point of sale about alternative, native plant options. Together, we're taking meaningful steps to preserve the beauty, balance and biodiversity of our Commonwealth for generations to come."

Delegate Seibold told NVBA, “In April 2023, fresh off my very first session in Richmond, I met with a group of local women in a small coffee shop in Vienna who had been spending their weekends removing invasive species for years. The data was startling and the damage was breathtaking. I knew right there and then that we must do something to prevent the further spread. As a former teacher, the first bill I wanted to carry on this topic was one that would educate the consumer about the harmful effects of invasive plants at the point of sale. 

“The bill received bi-partisan support and garnered lots of support from the community and advocates in the 2024 Session and passed the General Assembly; however, it was vetoed by the Governor. But we didn’t give up! We returned to the 2025 Session with an updated bill and lots of community members, advocates and stakeholders ready to work together to make this dream into a reality! "

Next Steps

The new law charges the head of the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumers Services, in consultation with the Virginia Invasive Species Working Group, with determining the format, size and content of the signs by October 1, 2025.

The Virginia Invasive Plant Coalition, which consists of 83 organizations including NVBA, will monitor the working group’s efforts and continue to advocate for more legislation in the coming years to curtail the sale and use of invasive plants. NVBA will continue to work with the coalition. Additional information is available from the coalition’s website and from Plant NOVA Natives.

Five Great Reasons to Garden with Natives

Photo: Native plant gardener in her garden, Margaret Fisher

Plant NOVA Natives

Gardening enthusiasts everywhere are gearing up for spring with renewed passion and anticipation. There are garden beds to expand, turf grass to shrink, new natives to add, non-natives to remove, and an urgency to finish the work before the warm weather arrives.

It’s a lot of physical labor, but we know it’s worth it. Gardening not only creates beauty. It is a moving meditation that helps calm our minds and makes us more present to the moment. As Margaret Atwood once said, “In the spring, at the end of the day, you SHOULD smell like dirt.” It’s very good for us on so many levels.

Not surprisingly, there are many more native plant gardeners today in northern Virginia than there were ten years ago, evidenced by the increase in commercial demand for native plants. This is not just a trend. It is a permanent shift in behavior driven by a deeper understanding of the interdependence of native plants, insects, birds, humans, and many other creatures. We have become ever more aware of the impact of our choices on the biodiversity of the region. There is no going back.

If you’re still on the fence about natives, here are five great reasons why native plant gardening is good for what ails our planet - and our hearts.

1. When you garden with native plants, you learn to name and recognize them in the wild as well. That knowledge is nice to acquire, of course, but it also helps foster a deep sense of appreciation for the natural world. Simply stated, when we know more, we care more about the environment and the collective human efforts to nurture it.

2. Native plant gardening is even more enjoyable when shared with others. Your newly acquired knowledge will undoubtedly lead to connections with other like-minded native plant lovers. New friends and acquaintances appear, sharing tips, experiences, and a collective love of gardening. An expanded network contributes to a sense of belonging as we act in concert with others instead of alone.

3. There is no denying that climate change is a daunting global issue. But native plant gardening nevertheless encourages and empowers us as individuals. Property owners of all stripes can do something significant to benefit the soil, the climate, and the entire ecosystem. Don’t fall into the trap of believing we are too small to make a difference. Together we can help heal the planet.

4. Native plant gardeners love the beauty of the blooms as much as the insects. There is no need to sacrifice aesthetics. Native plants not only attract pollinators and nurture their life cycles, they also offer stunning displays of color and texture that never fail to please.

5. Many native plants bloom later in the season. When non-native cultivars are starting to fade in the mid-summer heat, many natives are just beginning to show up and show off, ensuring a lively view that both delights the viewer and sustains local wildlife well into the fall. The stalks, seedheads, and berries continue to beautify the garden through winter.

Native plant gardener in her garden, Margaret Fisher

Gardening has always been fun, but gardening with natives is also meaningful. It serves a healing purpose and adds our names to the group effort. At the end of the day, native plant gardeners create beautiful spaces where humans and plants not only meet but conspire to collaborate. We are collectively honored to “smell like dirt” after creating such powerful things.

It all starts with planting your first native plant. To learn the how-tos, visit the Plant NOVA Natives website. You can also take the first step to certify your yard as a wildlife sanctuary by requesting a consultation visit by an ambassador from NVBA’s Wildlife Sanctury Program. 

Early Spring Blooms for the Garden

Photo: Spring Beauty, Margaret Fisher

Plant NOVA Natives

Our woodlands and meadows are about to awaken and burst into a vibrant display of spring ephemerals, the transient native beauties we love to see, especially after the cold and snowy days of winter. They are among the first spring plants to emerge and are indeed ephemeral. They don’t last long, completing their life cycle in a matter of weeks to take advantage of the sunlight that filters through the canopy before the trees leaf out.

Spring Beauty, Margaret Fisher

Virginia Bluebells are a well-known and popular example of a spring ephemeral, celebrated during bluebell festivals around the region in April. But the show starts earlier, with Spring Beauty sprinkling the ground starting in late March, followed by a whole array of fascinating species including Trout Lilies and Dutchman’s Breeches. We can bring their splendor and interest to our homes by planting them in our landscapes and gardens. They are the native equivalent of crocuses and daffodils, a difference being that they are transplanted in pots rather than planted as bulbs.

The blooms of spring ephemerals are small and delicate, almost fairy-like in appearance, and yet they are an important early source of pollen for newly emerging bees. Our gardens can serve as a haven for these small but mighty plants that directly support the biodiversity of the region. Spring ephemerals will emerge before many of us begin active gardening, so successful cultivation requires some advance thought and planning. They need sun in late winter and early spring but require shade later on as the sun intensifies and temperatures rise. They will be at home in most woody settings on your property, so plant them under trees, shrubs, and other large perennials where the soil is moist. They are particularly charming along paths and walkways where you can enjoy them every day as you pass by. You can read about them on the Plant NOVA Natives website.

Some growers advise that early fall is the best time to plant spring ephemerals, but the plants are harder to find for sale then since they would just look like empty pots. Planting them in the spring is just fine, but you may not see blooms in the first season. Most commercial nurseries these days sell the more popular species of spring ephemerals such as Virginia Bluebell, but a wider selection of species can be found in the native plant nurseries and at the local spring native plant sales.

Please remember this important rule when considering spring ephemerals for your property. You should always buy them from a grower and never take them from the wild. They are slow to propagate and will likely die if you disturb them. They may be small and short-lived, but they are crucial to the native ecosystems and a testament to the renewal of spring. Let’s enjoy them in the wild where they have decided to plant themselves.

Before this year’s spring ephemerals come and go, it’s worth the effort to get out to see them sprinkled across wetlands and woodland floors in parks and other undisturbed preserves across northern Virginia. They are a sight for sore eyes after the drab gray of winter. Open your plant identification apps, grab your native plant guidebook, or go on one of the spring ephemeral walks such as the ones hosted by the Virginia Native Plant Society. Watch your step and stay on the paths as you take in the wonderful display. Get to know them, fall under their spell, and you will no doubt be inspired to purchase and plant several of these magical beauties for your own garden viewing pleasure.

Clean Water and Native Plants

Image: James River Consortium

Plant NOVA Natives

If your property contains a stream, pond, or any sort of wetland, whether its flow is permanent or intermittent in nature, this article is especially for you! Anyone can directly enhance water quality, and in turn benefit the health of the animal, plant, and human communities that depend upon it, by using native plants to fill the “riparian buffer” adjacent to a water feature. The word “riparian” comes from a Latin word meaning “bank.” A riparian buffer protects the wetland from runoff from developed areas, including turfgrass lawns.

If the riparian buffer already contains natural vegetation, you should first control any invasive plants found there. You also should avoid adding any new species, native or otherwise, that will disturb the existing plant community. You may need a waiver from your local governmental authority to remove existing vegetation and to plant new plants within 100 feet of a stream, shore, or wetland. Maps of these “Resource Protection Areas” can be found here. If the area is currently landscaped or mowed, you may be able to add native plants without a waiver, but you should still check with your county or municipal government.

To figure out if the plants that are present are native or invasive, you can use a free app such as iNaturalist or a subscription-based app such as PictureThis to help you with the identification. You also can invite a volunteer from NVBA's Wildlife Sanctuary Program to walk the site with you.

Healthy riparian buffers with native plants are beautiful to see and fun to explore. They support a wide diversity of life and create peaceful and inviting landscapes that draw us in to enjoy and connect with the nature they support.

Riparian buffer graphic from James River Consortium

Riparian buffers are also the natural defenders of stream banks. They help stabilize the soil and control soil erosion. This is due to their capacity to slow down and absorb stormwater runoff that would otherwise erode the banks of streams and rivers and fill the Chesapeake Bay with excessive silt. Due to riparian buffer degradation and excessive runoff across northern Virginia, a massive quantity of silt from our streams and rivers now reaches the Chesapeake where it clogs the gills of wildlife, smothers eggs, buries aquatic insect habitats, and interferes with the production of oxygen by aquatic plants. Anything we do that successfully holds soil will benefit the Bay. Riparian buffers also act as filters that trap pollutants. This protects aquatic life from harmful contaminants and keeps them out of our water supply. Native trees provide the leaves that feed aquatic insects, and their shade lowers the water temperatures, making the environment more hospitable for life. As the earth warms, planting and protecting native plants on riparian borders will become increasingly urgent.

Ideally a riparian buffer should be at least 100 feet wide, but don’t let that discourage you, as a buffer of any size is helpful. Try to pick combinations of native plants that would naturally occur along waterways in your region. This will increase the odds of creating a balanced, healthy habitat that continues to grow and thrive. Please refer to the resources on the  Plant NOVA Natives website to help you select your plants.

Riparian buffers formed naturally on undisturbed land, holding soil, cooling water, filtering pollutants, and supporting life. It is humans who have disturbed them. Our work now is to take a moment to pause and wonder at the interdependence of land, water, native plants, and animals. Regardless of the other forces at work to degrade our environment, we still have the power to rebuild essential habitats on the lands we control.

Let Dead Plant Material Lie

Photo: Ilex verticallata and Monarda in the snow, Margaret Fisher

Plant NOVA Natives

Our splendid native plants are going dormant for the winter and leaving behind their seed heads and dead stalks as a reminder of growing season glory. Many of us are inclined to perceive these remnants as unsightly “garden debris” that should be cut and cleared sooner rather than later. Better now than in the spring, right?

Wrong! Dead native plant material is integral to a healthy ecosystem. An essential support for the populations of pollinators and other animals upon which we all depend, nothing comes close to replacing its role in the health of a diverse ecosystem. Before trotting out the clippers and rakes, consider this:

Dead stalks: Many dead stalks of native plants contain hollow spaces that are like 5-star winter resorts for the insect world. We may frown at their appearance, but native bees, among others, are industriously and ingeniously taking advantage of them in surprising ways. Adorable little bees that are so tiny you may never have noticed them are laying eggs, hibernating, and otherwise snuggling down for the harsh winter in the stem shelter of the native plants we installed. Insects aren’t the only critters who profit. Dead plant material provides shelter and nesting resources for birds and many others.

Dead leaves: Butterflies can spend the winter in leaf litter as caterpillars and chrysalises. The Mourning Cloak, Question Mark, and Comma butterflies, for example, overwinter in dead leaves as adults after entering a dormant phase called "diapause." Moth species such as Luna Moth and Isabella Tiger Moth also pupate in leaf litter. Salamanders, some turtles and other creatures find shelter there as well.

Seeds and berries: Seeds on flowerheads and winter berries are an important source of nourishment for both resident and migrating birds and are consumed throughout the fall and winter. Living or dead, native plant material has immense value for wildlife.

Living soil: Dead and decomposing plant materials are valuable components of soil. Gardeners and landscapers spend considerable time and money on store-bought organic material to condition the clay soil often encountered in northern Virginia. But the decomposing plant material already present helps build humus, a dark organic material comprised of approximately 60% carbon, 6% nitrogen, and small amounts of phosphorus and sulfur. Humus-rich soil encourages a proliferation of beneficial soil organisms and microorganisms. It also holds moisture and retains soil structure for better air and water circulation. The decomposition process creates very fertile ground indeed for native plant gardening.

Armed with this expanded understanding, it seems that the best fall cleanup strategy is to not have one: leave the stalks, stems and leaves alone and let them lie right where they are over the winter. A light cleanup or pruning in early spring to encourage new growth can be done with little or no harm to local wildlife. More information on garden and landscape maintenance can be found on the Plant NOVA Natives website.

We would be remiss not to include a word here about gardening aesthetics. We humans care about how things look. In daily life, surrounded by people, garden beauty and aesthetics will always be a consideration. Our definition of “garden beauty,” however, can certainly evolve. Are not waving seedheads more interesting than bare ground? And is it not beautiful that all kinds of animals need our pollinator gardens for more than just pollen? That our efforts not only attract pollinators but enable their very survival? That it takes just a bit of forbearance to advance and strengthen the biodiversity of the region?

Let’s pause the garden cleanup until spring, and then be gentle on the emerging life.

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Sanctuary for Chickadees

Photo: Carolina Chickadee, Gary Robinette/Audubon Photography Awards

The Wildlife Sanctuary program helps homeowners create habitat in their own yards, with the aim of attracting and supporting beneficial wildlife that breed and live in our area. There are 42 Sanctuary Species, and you can learn more about them here. A yard that attracts 10 Sanctuary Species that nest, breed, forage, shelter, or hunt in the yard can be certified as a Wildlife Sanctuary our motto is, “Let the animals decide.”

Carolina Chickadee, Maxine Okazaki/Audubon Photography Awards

One Sanctuary Species is the Carolina Chickadee (Poecile carolinensis), that common, cheery visitor to backyard bird feeders. Chickadees are winter residents, and this small bird must contend with cold and consequent heat loss. About half survive the winter. Homeowners can help them survive by planting an evergreen shrub or tree to provide shelter from cold winds, and by providing a bird feeder. Hang feeders a short distance (maybe 6 to 10 feet) from tree and shrub cover, so birds can quickly seek cover when they spot predators, like hawks or stray cats. Chickadees are sentinels and warn other wildlife of approaching predators with their Chick-a-dee-dee-dee alarm call. They are cavity-nesters, so preserve trees with cavities, dead or alive, to provide roosting and nesting sites. Chickadees will use nest boxes, too.

More than anything, though, Chickadees need a yard full of native plants. How can that be? Chickadees eat seeds, so why do they need native plants?

Native plants are required to support the insects on which Chickadees depend for over half their diet. Caterpillars and other insects are especially critical when Chickadees are raising young in spring. Because nestlings need protein to grow, they must eat insects. Most native insects are specialists: they eat only the host plants with which they co-evolved. Without the native plants, there are fewer native insects, and without the insects, the birds cannot thrive, no matter how many bird feeders are available to them.

Carolina Chickadee, Minnie Lucas/Audubon Photography Awards

An ingenious study conducted by Douglas Tallamy and his colleagues in yards right here in the DC area confirms the effect. The scientists measured the amount of native plant material in each yard, and they observed whether Chickadees nested in it, and how successful their nesting efforts were. 

Yards in which less than 70% of the plant material (trees, shrubs) was native were “food deserts” that could not support enough insects to sustain chickadee families. Chickadees were less likely to nest in such yards, and those that did, had less reproductive success. The result was declines in Chickadee populations. 

So, as you watch the Chickadees visit the bird feeder through your window in this cold winter weather, think ahead to spring and plan to fill your yard with native trees and shrubs to support next year’s Chickadee families.

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Where Do They Go?

Photo: Wood Frog, VA Herpetological Society

Betsy Martin

Where do animals go in the winter, when many seem to just disappear?

The ancients puzzled over the disappearance and reappearance of birds. Aristotle thought they transformed into other species in winter, which explained why robins appeared just as redstarts disappeared in Greece. In the 16th century, Olaus Magnus theorized that swallows buried themselves in clay at the bottom of rivers in wintertime. In the 17th century, Charles Morton offered the most fantastic theory of all, that birds flew to the moon and back every year.

We know now that migration on earth accounts for the disappearance and reappearance of birds. But what about other creatures? Learning their whereabouts give us the chance to help many of them overwinter and reappear in the spring.

Butterflies and other insects

We know that some butterfly species migrate, just like the birds, although often we do not know their destination. We can see thousands of Cloudless Sulphurs, Mourning Cloaks and Monarchs move south, but we don’t always know exactly where they go. Most Monarchs from west of the Rocky Mountains winter along the California coast, while those from central North America winter in roosts in the mountains of central Mexico. Some Monarchs from the Atlantic seaboard may migrate to the same Mexican overwintering sites, but others may travel to Florida, possibly joining up with resident, non-migratory populations. Or they may migrate beyond to undiscovered sites in the Caribbean or the Yucatan Peninsula. 

Still other summer butterflies do not survive the winter. But each year, as the weather warms, butterflies from Mexico and the southern United States fly north to repopulate Virginia. Examples include Common Buckeye, Cloudless Sulphur, Painted Lady, and Red Admiral. 

But many insects don’t leave at all--they shelter in micro-habitats under the soil, inside rotting logs, in tree holes, inside plant galls, in leaf litter, or under rocks. Insects can enter a dormant state, called diapause, with a metabolic rate barely high enough to keep them alive. Some larvae replace the water in their bodies with glycerol, a type of antifreeze. Still other insects lay eggs that survive winter.

Wood Frog, VA Herpetological Society

Frogs and toads 

We know that frogs and toads hibernate. After finding or making a living space (hibernaculum) that protects it from winter weather and predators, its metabolism slows and it "sleeps away" the winter, then "wakes up" when spring arrives. 

Terrestrial toads such as American Toads (Bufo americanus) and other good diggers burrow deep into soil to hibernate below the frost line. Wood Frogs (Rana sylvatica), Spring Peepers (Hyla crucifer) and other less-adept diggers seek out deep cracks and crevices in logs or rocks, or just dig down as far as they can in the leaf litter. Their living spaces or hibernacula are not well protected from frigid weather and may freeze, along with their inhabitants.

And yet, the frogs do not die. A high concentration of glucose in the frog's vital organs prevents freezing, even though ice crystals form in its body. A partially frozen frog stops breathing, its heart stops beating and it appears dead. But when the hibernaculum warms up, the frog's frozen portions thaw, its heart and lungs resume activity and it comes back to life.

Various species have amazing and diverse strategies for surviving winter. You can help them thrive by gardening with awareness of their seasonal needs. 

To help the creatures that remain survive the winter:

Wooly Bear Caterpillar, Sheila Sund from Salem, United States, CC BY 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

• Leave the leaves. Leaf litter is key to many species’ winter survival, both insects and foraging birds that live here year-round.

• Don’t be too tidy about cutting and cleaning up dead flower stems and stalks. Many insect pupae attach themselves to dead stalks, and adults lay eggs or burrow into stems for winter protection. Don’t throw away next spring’s crop of butterflies and insects by chopping up all the dead stems.

• Leave woody debris. Some animals find or create their winter homes in woody debris like logs and large branches. 

• Be careful about digging or raking in winter. You may be digging up somebody’s winter home. If you do accidentally uncover or dig up an apparently lifeless frog or woolly bear, or firefly larvae, gently cover it up again and leave it to its winter sleep.

• Winter is a good time for any tree work or removal you need to do. Doing such work in spring or summer risks destroying bird nests and nestlings.

To help migrating birds:

• Plant fall-fruiting native shrubs to help migratory birds survive their fall migration south.

• Avoid using insecticides that kill the insects that birds depend on to feed their young when they return to breed in the spring.

Learn more about creating your own Wildlife Sanctuary here. You can request a visit by a Wildlife Sanctuary Ambassador who will advise on habitat improvements you can make on your property. Winter is our slow season, and a good time for a visit to start planning for spring.

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Come help plant our generous wild plant donation from Earth Sangha!

Photo: Donated plants, Bill Browning

Earth Sangha is a key partner in the Stretch Our Parks habitat restoration corridor currently active between Upton Hill Regional Park and the Dominion Hills Area Recreation Association. They made a sizable donation of wild plants to the project and we need to get these youngsters in the ground! Please come help build deer exclosure cages and plant these gifts. Sign up, and get more details, via the links below.

Lockwood/Elmwood Senior Housing Complex (Wednesday, November 20, Meet at 8:50 AM)

https://www.signupgenius.com/go/8050D48AFAC23A6F85-46970234-invasive#/

Dominion Hills Area Recreation Association (Saturday, November 23, Meet at 9:00 AM)

https://www.signupgenius.com/go/9040A4BA9A92CA31-powhatan1#/

Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac: Grow your own bird feeder for migrating birds

Photo: Blackpoll Warbler, Kevin Sim/Audubon Photography Awards

Betsy Martin

Hurricanes Helene and Milton posed special challenges during this fall’s migration. Migration ecologist Andrew Farnsworth of the Cornell Lab of Ornithology estimated that 150 to 275 species were in the midst of migration during the hurricanes, which interrupted the migration of more than 100 million birds crossing over Alabama, according to the Washington Post.

Even without hurricanes, migration poses challenges that defy imagination. Take, for example, the Blackpoll Warbler (Setophaga striata). The Blackpoll Warbler does not breed in northern Virginia, and only shows up here while migrating to and from its breeding grounds in conifer forests far north in Alaska and Canada and its wintering grounds in South America.

This small bird weighs less than half an ounce, about as much as two quarters. Yet, it undertakes the longest migration of any North American warbler. Some individuals travel almost 5,000 miles from Alaska to Brazil. In fall, they travel south and southeast through Canada and the northeast U.S., and collect along the coastal plain between Nova Scotia and Cape Hatteras, NC. Then, it’s believed (the experts aren’t really sure), they head south and southeast over the Atlantic, and fly nearly 2,000 miles to Puerto Rico, the Lesser Antilles, or northern South America. This may involve an 88-hour nonstop flight over the open ocean! They ride northeast trade winds to direct their flight toward South America.

Sassafras drupes are a favorite of early fall migrants, such as Eastern kingbirds. The red pedicels signal the fruit is ripe. Photo: Betsy Washington

To accomplish this amazing feat, Blackpoll Warblers nearly double their weight before setting out. They add fatty fruits to their diet of bugs and caterpillars. They eat any late summer or fall fruits, but it’s the native ones that have the high fat content they need to sustain them on their long journey. 

Blackhaw. Photo: Courtesy of Dyck Arboretum of the Plains

Migrating birds make periodic stopovers to eat and replenish their energy reserves. Make your yard a wildlife sanctuary for them by planting native fruiting shrubs, trees, and vines. Good choices for migrants that also make nice landscape plants in northern Virginia include Arrowwood, Blackhaw, or Possomhaw viburnums (Viburnum dentatum, V. prunifolium, V. nudum), Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Silky, Gray, or Flowering Dogwood (Swida amomum, S. racemosum, Benthmidia florida), Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), and Sassafras (Sassafras albidum). Bayberry’s (Myrica cerifera) wax-coated fruits can only be digested by a few migrant species (Yellow-rumped warbler and Tree swallow) so this plant is not useful to most migrants. Fruits of other native fruiting trees, such as American holly (Ilex opaca) and Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) ripen too late to be useful to fall migrants, but are good food sources for wintering species. All of these shrubs and trees set more fruit if planted where they get sun. You can find out more about their characteristics, requirements, and eventual size here. 

Fall-fruiting native shrubs and trees not only provide nutritious, fatty berries for birds, but also display beautiful fall color. That’s not for our benefit: what’s called foliar fruit flagging is the way the plants signal to birds that fruits are ripe and ready for plucking—just in time for migration.

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Catch up on past Wildlife Sanctuary Almanac articles here.

Supporting your garden through heat and drought

Photo: Thriving native plant garden, Mona Enquist-Johnson

Margaret Fisher and Eileen Ellsworth

We all know the climate is getting hotter. The week of July 22 included the world’s two hottest days in recorded history. At the same time, the average annual rainfall in Virginia has risen, as a warmer atmosphere tends to hold more moisture. Since it also creates more violent storms, the water runs off faster, a problem compounded by periods of drought, which still occur despite the increase in total rain. We can only anticipate more heat and more drought in the future.

These changes have not gone unnoticed by local gardeners. Some plants which had always seemed hardy are now struggling in the heat. We see some so-called “sun loving” plants wilting in the heat of direct sun and never fully recovering. We are not sure what “sun loving” really means at this point. How much direct sun do plants “love” when it’s 95 degrees?

Most plants require supplemental watering when newly planted, but this year even well-established and well-sited plants are struggling in the heat and drought. Native plants have the advantage of being adapted to our local conditions, but what happens when those conditions change? We asked our native plant gardeners to share observations about plants that normally tolerate full sun conditions. Here are some of their answers.

• Some redbuds in full sun that were fine in previous years are now turning brown, which makes sense as it is an understory species accustomed to at least some shade.

• Coral Honeysuckle is doing fine in full sun if the roots are shaded, which also mimics how the vine behaves in nature as it climbs up trees.

• Some Virgina Sweetspire shrubs are wilting under the full force of the afternoon sun.

• Green-and-gold seems to tolerate full sun or dry soil but not both. The same is true of Golden Ragwort.

• The shrubs Arrowwood and Black-haw viburnums, Spicebush, and Bladdernut seem unfazed.

• Examples of perennials and grasses that are holding up well despite the stress include asters, goldenrods, Tickseed Coreopsis, Butterfly Weed, Black-eyed Susan, Wild Petunia and Switchgrass. The plants may not grow as tall, though, when stressed.

Going forward, here are some gardening strategies to consider.

Shop for Drought-Resistant Plants: We can’t control the climate, but if we don’t want to spend the rest of our lives watering, we will shop more carefully for plants that tolerate heat and drought. A bit more research on the plant than the information provided by the plant label can pay off.

Consider Nature’s Place: Where plants are found in nature is a clue to where we should plant them. If they naturally grow in cooler, shadier, or wetter wild settings, they are likely to require more supplemental watering in a dryer, hotter garden. There are exceptions, though: some plants that grow in marshes, such as Buttonbush and Swamp Rose Mallow, do surprisingly well in compacted, clay soil.

Monitor Ground Moisture: Too much water can kill a plant as effectively as too little, so it is important to estimate the moisture level before watering. If sticking your finger into the ground doesn’t appeal, a moisture meter can be very handy and occasionally deliver some big surprises, since water moves down into even slight depressions. 

Use Mulch: Two or three inches of hardwood or leaf mulch will cool the soil and reduce evaporation. However, too thick a layer can become a water barrier and actually dry out the bed. Wood chip mulch is the preferred choice under trees because water flows through it more easily. Fallen leaves are nature’s solution and can do the job in a garden bed with the additional benefit of providing habitat for fireflies and amphibians. 

Plant Green Mulch: If you use living plants as a kind of green mulch, that can also cool and moisten the soil, though competition for water between plants needs to be considered.

Plant More Trees: With temperatures rising, shade gardens are the gardens of the future. Just remember that you should always pull turf grass away from tree trunks out to the drip line, since the roots of trees are quite shallow and have trouble competing with turf for water and nutrients.  

Many answers to your questions can be found in the Plant NOVA Natives online search app, which we constantly update as more information comes in. If you have additional observations or strategies to contribute, please send them to plantnovanatives@gmail.com.